काशी आज भी वही…. – सुमित सरकार

काशी आज भी वही….
जो देखी थी पचास साल पहले।
बदला तो सिर्फ़ आज उसका मिज़ाज।

गधोलिया सिगरा चेतगंज लहुराबीर और भी कई मुहल्लों के बदल गए नक़्शे कल और आज के बीच में।

बदल गया स्वरूप बाबा विश्वनाथ के पावन धाम का। यादों में रह गए वह गधोलिया से मंदिर तक की परिक्रमा वाली गलियाँ।

सुबह होते आज सुनाई ना पड़ती, उन गलियों से भारतीय संगीतों की धुन और शास्त्रीय संगीत की मल्हार।

वरना आज भी वही सँकरी गलियाँ,
दो अजनबी के कंधे लड़ने पर “माफ़ क़रीबू” जैसे मुँह से निकलते अलंकार

गलियों के मोड़ों पर खिलखिलाता बनरसियां पान की दुकानें…..

भोर होते गूँजती लाखों मन्दिरों से घंटे
घड़ियालों और शंखों की आवाज़ें। आह्वान करती देवी देवताओं को…..

दिन चढ़ता है, गलियाँ जगती,
दुकानें खुलती, लगता काशी हर रोज़
मुस्कुराने अपनी रोज़मर्रा की रफ़्तार में

दूसरी जलती चिताएँ चौबीस घंटे मणिकर्णिका और हरिशचंद्र घाट मे।
याद दिलाती जो इंसानों को स्वर्ग नरक की बातें इन्हीं घाटों मे।

पूड़ी कचौड़ी गरमा गरम चाय समोसा जलेबी की ख़ुशबू निकल आती उन गली मुहल्ले की दुकानों से।
जो टपकाती मुँह से लार कल और आज भी।

साँझ होते, सूरज उतरता पीली रोशनी लिये गंगा के उस पार
सजती काशी के घाटों में दीयों की क़तारें। खेलती आँख मिचौली अँधेरे से

होती भव्य गंगा आरती रीति रिवाज से दशाश्वमेध घाट में।

आज भी वही गंगा है, वही घाट हैं,
वही मंदिरों की घंटियाँ हैं, वही पान की खुशबू है,
वही पूड़ी-कचौड़ी का स्वाद है, वही बोली,
वही ठसक, वही बेफ़िक्री, वही अपनापन।

काशी आज भी वही….
बदला तो सिर्फ़ काशी का वक़्त
बदला तो सिर्फ़ काशी का स्वरूप
बदले तो सिर्फ़ काशी के चेहरे

मगर दिल से देखो तो काशी आज भी वही काशी है।

~ सुमित सरकार

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